Pool and Hot Tub Troubleshooting


Swimming Pool Troubleshooting

If you use the “LOCEY CLEAR SYSTEM” you should have crystal clear water. However-if you don’t, several factors may be the cause. Use the guide below to diagnose your problem and find possible solutions.[/vc_column_text][vc_toggle title=”Cloudy Water” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]This may be caused by any of the following problems:

  • Check pool filtration system. Do you have the correct pressure? How often do you run the pool pump (run enough hours in the day based upon pool size).  Make sure there is DE or enough sand in the filter. Be sure the filter is clean. If dirty, use FILTER CLEAN to clean grids, elements or cartridges. If filter is clean and working properly, run 24 hours a day until water clears up.
  • Check the pH of the water. High pH will cause cloudiness and can be corrected by adding pH REDUCER.
  • Check the chlorine or bromine level. If too low, boost with HAVILAND DURACHLOR GRANULAR CHLORINE. (4 oz. per 10,000 gallons), or increase the lever on your brominator to a higher number.
  • Need to shock.  It is recommended to shock a pool or spa at least once a week.  CLEAR SHOCK is an excellent Non-Chlorine Shock–for chlorine or bromine based pools/hot tubs.
[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Green Algae” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]This is the most common form of algae in swimming pools. This algae usually appears in areas of little circulation. Use PREMIUM BLUE to kill the algae.  Make sure your sanitizer and pH levels are in ideal range.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Black Algae” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]This may be one of the most stubborn algaes to eliminate. It clings to walls and floors and looks like dark spots or mildew. Use PREMIUM BLUE, brush the trouble areas daily to break the protective shell black algae forms over itself.  Also, keep your sanitizer level high-end of ideal.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Algae Prevention” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]The best way to stop algae is to prevent it from forming in the first place. By following the CLEAR SYSTEM along with proper filtration, algae will not be a problem. Use ALGAE CLEAR CONTROL PLUS weekly as a preventative.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Colored Water” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]Clear, colored water (green, red, brown, etc.) may indicate the presence of minerals/metals in the water. To prevent stains and eliminate colored water, use MINERAL CLEAR weekly.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Scale” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]Scale is to the swimming pool like fat is to the heart and veins. Scale can form on the walls, pipes and equipment. Make sure the pH is in the proper range. Scaling can be caused by high pH or by repeated use of calcium-based chlorine. For scale that is present and to prevent build up, use MINERAL CLEAR weekly.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”pH Problems” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]If keeping your pH in the correct range is a problem, check the total alkalinity. Total alkalinity controls pH. Make sure the total alkalinity is between 80-120 ppm.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”High Chlorine Usage” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]First, check the stabilizer level. Too little stabilizer will result in more chlorine being used. Add STABILIZER if below 30 ppm. Also check the total vs. free chlorine (total chlorine=free chlorine+combined chlorine). Combined chlorine (or chloramines), is chlorine that is locked up with contaminants and is an ineffective sanitizer. Your goal is to have no combined, only free, chlorine in your pool. To rid your pool of combined chlorine, shock your pool with CLEAR SHOCK. A third cause of high chlorine usage can be pH. Chlorine is most effective when the pH is between 7.2 to 7.6 on your test kit.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Chlorine Odor” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]

This is most likely a sign of combined chlorine (or chloramines) mentioned above. Combined chlorine will irritate the skin and eyes, and cause a strong chlorine odor. To free up this chlorine, shock the pool with CLEAR SHOCK. To prevent the build up of combined chlorine, shock your pool every week.  Shock twice weekly when the water temperature is 80° or higher, or if you have a high bather load!

[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Skin and Eye Irritation” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]There are two primary reasons for this: 1) Improper pH balance and 2) Chloramines. Improper pH can be corrected by using pH INCREASER OR REDUCER. Chloramines can be removed by shocking the pool with our non-chlorine shock, CLEAR SHOCK. This product allows you to shock your pool and swim 15 minutes later. A chlorine shock is also effective; however, you may have to wait a day or two for the chlorine level to drop before resuming swimming.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Scum Line” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]A scum line can occur for many reasons such as body oils, lotions, and many other contaminants that enter your pool. Use NATURE’S CARE SCUM AWAY once every other week.  If left untreated, your filter works harder, gets clogged faster and can shorten a pool vinyl-liner’s life.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Foaming” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]This problem is usually caused from the use of cheap algaecides. Use ANTI-FOAM and run your filter until the foam is gone.  Foaming can also be caused from detergents from swimsuits.[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Corrosion” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%230b7de6″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]Corrosion can be the most expensive problem you could encounter. Heater elements, equipment, fittings, pipes and walls can be damaged beyond repair. To avoid this costly problem, make sure your pH is balanced. Low pH means your water is very acidic and therefore corrosive. Test your pH every two days and always after a rain. Rain will usually be “acid rain” thus lowering your pH.[/vc_toggle][vc_column_text]

Swimming Pool Articles

[/vc_column_text][vc_toggle title=”Spring Pool Opening” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%2365be00″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]It’s almost time to think spring and clean off your solar cover and dust off your equipment! When coming into Locey Swim & Spa for the first time this season, don’t forget to bring your water sample! Bring it in a clean bottle and give us at least 16 oz. of water. To get you started on the right foot, we will want to test for the following levels:

  • Cyanuric Acid (for chlorine-based pools)
  • Chlorine/ Bromine level (or whatever Sanitizer you use i.e. Baquacil)
  • pH
  • Total Alkalinity

For those who don’t normally test pH and Alkalinity, these levels are VERY important to keep in certain parameters. You want your pH between 7.2 -7.6, and total alkalinity between 80-120 on a consistent basis. Keeping these levels in check helps your pool and/or spa equipment running good over the years, and assists your chemicals in working to their maximum effectiveness! Due to the changing environment over the past 15 years, pH and Alkalinity levels are becoming lower, meaning more acidic, and affecting how we take care of our water!

Come on in and visit any of the friendly faces you’re used to seeing and we’ll test your water!

Look forward to seeing you!

Nicole Locey[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”How Many Gallons Does My Pool Hold?” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%2365be00″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]

18′ Round 7,600 8,200
21′ Round 10,600 11,200
24′ Round 13,500 14,600
27′ Round 17,000 18,500
30′ Round 21,300 22,900
12′ X 24′ Oval 6,800 7,300
15′ x 30′ Oval 10,600 11,400
16′ X 32′ Oval 12,100 13,000
18′ x 33′ Oval 14,000 15,100
16′ x 32′ 20,000
17′ X 35′ 22,800
18′ X 36′ 25,000
19′ X 37′ 27,000
19′ X 43′ 31,300
20′ X 40′ 30,000
[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Winter Pool Closing” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%2365be00″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]I hope everyone got a lot of swimming in this season! I know I did! If the weather stays hot, take advantage of it and keep your pool open longer! However, it will soon be time to close the pool.

We are ready with one-page, quick-read sheets–tailored for your inground or above ground pool size, on how to winterize. If you’ve never winterized your pool before, ask us—we can help walk you through it!

One thing to do before you lower your water is to make sure your Chlorine, Bromine (or other sanitizer), pH and Alkalinity levels are in balance.

Ideal levels for most pools are:

Chlorine = 3.0 ppm

Bromine = 4.0 ppm

pH = 7.4-7.6

Alkalinity = 80-120 ppm

If you need us to check these levels for you, just bring in a water sample.  If you sanitize your pool with an alternative system other than chlorine or bromine, refer to recommended manufacturer levels.

Below are some tips for winterizing a pool heater:

Remove the pressure switch.

Blow out the lines from the inlet port at the heater.

Place an opened box of Mothballs in the bottom of the heater, or soak cotton balls with mint oil (this helps keep pests out, including spiders—which tend to cause problems in springtime due to their webbing).

It is highly recommended that you cover your heater with something. We have “Weather Out” heater covers that are made of a thick, vinyl material. Otherwise using a canvas tarp or something of that nature will help keep your heater looking nice years down the road.

We are fully stocked with winter covers, chemical closing kits, plugs, water tubes, anti-freeze, etc.

We are open year-round, so if you need any items for your pool during the fall or winter, please call us or stop by either location in Portage or Kalamazoo.

Even if your pool is problem-free this winter, stop in and say hi to the Locey Staff.  We have specials and sales throughout the year!

Nicole Locey[/vc_toggle][vc_toggle title=”Harsh Winter For Pools” custom_font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:left|color:%2365be00″ custom_use_theme_fonts=”yes” use_custom_heading=”true”]

This has been one of the harshest winters many of us have seen. Here’s what you can do to help out your pool until you open it come spring:
1) Drain off the pool cover as soon as you can, so the water weight doesn’t pull too hard on the cover.
a. People with safety mesh covers don’t have to worry about this as the water drains through (when it melts)
b. People with solid safety covers make sure the water weight is drained off
c. All safety cover customers inspect springs and buckles and make sure everything is situated properly
2) Make sure you winter cover is still in good condition/in place
3) Check for any signs of winter stress
a. Above ground pools: assess the outside structure
b. Inground pools: look for any major water loss
4) Open up your pool earlier than usual so you can get things running and address issues early on